Hand Woven by Native Americans

If you collect vintage ties for long enough, you’ll find a bunch of these. Quite often, but not always, marketed as being hand woven by Native Americans, but always frayed ends on these ties and usually quite robust and rugged woollens. This is by no means all of this type that I own, so there’ll probably be another post along these lines in the future. I am not certain that these really are woven by Native Americans, even when they claim to be. My favourite – by Los Wigwam Weavers – doesn’t sound quite right, tbh, and sounds more than a little exploitative.

Bacterial

The Baroness Kurtz is prone to referring to this tie as “The Bacteria Tie”, and I think she’s on the money. The strange design does look like clusters of bacilli and cocci. A mid-1930s tie put out by McGoldrick, I’m not quite sure why that particular font is used for “F-S” on the label – vaguely suggesting something oriental about the design or fabric, maybe?

Chas. Macintosh Weathercoat

It’s not very often any more that I’m blown away by a vintage find. But this is truly something I thought I’d never find. I’ve been drooling over this type of European golf/sporting jacket in catalogues (see pics below) for years, but I’ve never seen one for sale, let alone owned one. I’ve owned, and seen in other people’s collections, a bunch of 1930s leather or suede versions, but never one in a cloth fabric. I don’t know any other vintage collectors (and I know a few!) who have seen one.

This one was made by the Chas Macintosh Co. Charles Macintosh (for whom the Mackintosh coat is named) was a Scottish inventor who invented waterproof fabrics made of India Rubber using a patented process. This jacket made of the original fabric! It is reversible, with one side being a lighter shade of cream than the other. Both sides feature 2 patch pockets, and the front Lightning zipper is an awesome example of 1930 zipper technology. The folded metal slider and stopper box are wonders of light engineering.

Enjoy!

 

These Bukta catalogues from 1939 feature golfing jackets of very similar design and description. made of Bux-Gab or “Air-light Buxsylk”.

And this catalogue from the Houndsditch Warehouse Co. of 1938 has a similar jacket in waterproof fabric. “Made of rainproof suedette that has a soft velour finish”. “Designed with full-length “Lightning” zip fastener and elasticated waist and cuffs.”

And not restricted to Britain, on left below here’s a similar (though different) jacket marketed for cyclists in a 1936 catalogue from France.

 

 

Abstract Boxes/Pictureframes

A lovely mid-1930s necktie by Cheney Cravats, who made really very high quality ties. I like everything about it. The colour combinations, the abstract boxes or picture frames, maybe. Just awesome.

Baggy – GGG Clothes 1947 Catalogue

I’ve whined before about 1920s super skinny cut suits, the “cult-of-youth” reaction to the end of WWI. Well, the reaction of men’s fashion to WWIIs end was equally unfavourable to small men like me. But this time, the exact opposite to the 20s fashion. As illustrated in this wonderfully propagandising GGG Clothes catalogue from 1947, late 1940s men’s fashion was all about massive lines. Massive shoulders, baggy and draped chest and long-line jackets with much less waist suppression that their predecessors. Were a short man to wear these suits, he would look like he’d raided his dad’s closet. Awful styles for short men, as I’ve found to my horror. It’s a pity, as I really love the bold fabrics that were popular. But the shoulders are always so gigantic!

Horseheads Lassos/Bridles

Another interesting American horse themed tie. This ones got no maker name, is unlined, and dates to the late 1930s. Are those lassos, bridles or reins? Not sure, but a nice, subdued design, as horse ties from this era go.

Fancy Flocks

A quite amazing American suit from the late 30s to middle 40s. Beautiful light blue fabric with blue, red and some emerald green flocks/stripes and a vibrant light blue overcheck. Amazing!

Heinrich Siewert

A very nice German suit from the late 40s or early 50s. The jet black fabric has a self stripe, and feels very high quality. Modell “Berlin” sold by Heinrich Siewert, but the labels tend to suggest it’s a mass manufactured suit rather than bespoke. I really like the little waistband flapped fob pocket on German suits of this era and I’m a great fan of DAKS waistbands. The rear suspender buttons on German suits are always on these long extender tabs. A very strange Germanic innovation.

Family Tartans

The American obsession with all things Scottish and Irish is by no means a new phenomenon. However distant the arrival from the “old country”, you’ll find no shortage of colonials (Australians and New Zealanders are just as bad) who bear an unreasonable – and, since most haven’t visited, irrational – regard for Scotland.

Tapping into this obsession, Botany put out a nostalgic range of ties covering all the family tartans. Here’re some that I’ve picked up thrifting over the years.

MacBeth:

Calhoun:

MacMillan:

Weir:

Hunting Fraser: